150mod-
Slow down, I can't understand you...
Anyway, if you want to give tips, put it in the Tip/Trick Section, at this point, because it is a month-old topic. :wink:
Or
Just PM him, and tell him you have a tip, for an old topic. It's ok, we all bring old topics back, it's a mistake. :)

Try not to. 8)

Junk ET

heyn guys you are over thinking this just do a six cell with a radio shack stack stage two and twelvbe tooth gear for a beginner itll do just fine and before he gets liths get ic3 and he"ll do fine oh and its not that hard to install a sixcell in an evo infiniti i did it in 5 minutes not including fittingh the body on that required some shaving but now it zoomes

Nope. they are AAA, you should get AA size. You can run 4 AAA's if you rewire the battery box to run 4 3.6V cells. 4 of those batteries would have too much voltage in the stock battery holders.

Plus, they have only 250 mAh, I believe you can find higher rated AAA Li-ion batteries.

Try this site. www.batteryspace.com

wow, just saw these in another topic, should I get two of these

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ultrafire-Charger-Rechargeable-Lithium-3-6v-AAA-%20B...

what do you think I should do with $35 to make my car better overall, with speed, accelleation, and good turning.

how about, the $20 ebay motor, and either the RS suspenion and steering upgrade or the RS race suspenion tuning upgrade, or any GPM parts the help with steering

AWD will mean better handling not faster. It actually makes your car go a tiny bit slower because of more weight n strain on the motor, but just a tiny bit. You'd accelerate faster because of better traction.

Stage two motors dont mean anything... They dont really make you go faster. You'd be able to hit those higher numbers but the acceleration sucks. All they did was just take off some turns off of the armature. Thing is, it comes with those regular stock magnets which are extremly weak compared to neodyniums. With my motor you'll get a armature with lower turns then the stage two but you'll have it pattern wound. Basically you'll be fast and with the neos, you wont have to wait for the motor to spool up. I'll get back to you about the RPM figures because i dont have machines to test that. I'll have the motor built probably before next week.

How long would it take to build it, and will I be able to just unscrew the heat sink and put it in then screw in the wires. Also should I buy a GPM heat sink for it, and do you know how fast it will make it or how many RPMs

and since its $35, should I get your motor, a stage 2 motor and AWD, or the motor on ebay and AWD, I want my car to do around 20mph or higher

EDIT: better question, with only $35 how fast could I make my car and how (please no battery things they look to hard to install. -thanks

yeah, See i took my fully modded evo with a custom extened ITR body to race with one day. It has etecs, nelly evo, a handwound 40T long arm with an atomic case that i did and it got whooped. I mean it was fast yeah sure, but it didnt compare to a miniz because of their electronics. Radioshack over did the suspension and made it sloppy... on top of that the electronics are so bad that you cant even control it. @_@ So after that i just said screw it and swaped to a miniz mr02. I think both are pretty koo.... mr02s are the cheaper things in the scene right now so tahts why i got it. it was fast, competitive and was fun. You might want to consider that. And I still stand by getting a fully stock miniz over a fully modded over the top xmod just because of the electronics.

An evo with stock electronics would be really hard to beat a Mini-Z. The Zs throttle and steering control is uncomparable.

An evo with liths can easily beat a 6V evo with any other mods on a track.

I plan on buying a AWD Z sometime. I find it harder to dish out ~$175 for an AWD Z than to spend $175+ on a evo car and truck in months. After just a motor and suspension upgrades, you easily break the $200 mark after buying an AWD Z.

eh G-Wagon, that motor is ok. Its definently not the fastest 45T around but 45T is the limit number for a fast stock motor. (that being that its the minimum number of turns before your fets start dieing)

Eh, can you control a lithium car around the track? Plus at that point you might as well dish out the cash for a stock miniz. Its definently not neccessary and probably to much power to win a race. Have you tried running one against a miniz before?

Why not? I run my lithium powered evo around an RCP.

What motor? I can build you a 45T pattern wound motor that'll make your car go as fast as possible with those fets for $35 shipped to your door. (it'll be sitting in a nice atomic can with neos...) PM me for the details if you're interested.

As color0 said, the best 'speed' mod is to upgrade to li-poly. Its about the cost of a new motor but will send your car flying. I certainly liked it but its definently not for track racing.

what do guys think about this motor, is this good for my completly stock G35, how fast does it sound like it will be, telll me if you guys know of any other motors under $35 that will fit a completly stock EVO series G35

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=018&item=280013049226&r...

well what motor can I put in my car that will make it go from like 20-30mph and keeping everything else stock (using stock FETS (whatever those are).

Li-ion or li-poly batteries will easily bump the car's speed up to 25mph. Problem is that li-ion doesn't cooperate with the Xmod evo's battery tray, and li-poly is a bit more expensive.

You can do a google search for both of these; if you want li-ion ($7 a pair, but I warn you, not easy to mount under the evo chassis...), batteryspace.com is your source, if you want li-poly ($20 a pair), multiple stores carry it. Be sure the size will fit in your car.

As for chargers, I've had one up for sale for a long time, that works with 1, 2, 3, or 4 cells; it's from batteryspace.com.