Texan: Ive tried to obtain a resistance reading on other motors, but the resistance is off the charts. Off the meter, anyway. Unless I did it wrong, which I doubt. I dare not take a resistance reading while the motor is powered. Any pointers, all?

Even cheap multi-meters have a setting to measure resistance. Just go from motor tab to motor tab I would assume.

Thanks Cowboy. That was one of the first motor info resources I scoured when I initially got into xmodding. Good stuff. Damn shame he doesnt update it with the new motor info anymore, though.

Thanks for searchin for those CF driveshafts Mongo. Lemme know if they ever show up and you still dont need them.
Ill have to buy a multi-meter with 10A capability, I have no idea how to pull a resistance measure from a motor.

You're the greatest, guys. - mech

Another way to determin amps is to use Ohms law.

If you can get the resistance of the motor, and you know the voltage, you can calculate the amp draw.

Speedy 05 answers...

http://www.pimpmymod.com/index_files/Page3113.htm

Hope it helps. :wink:

....That would botch trying to keep the RSX a stock FET racer. I forgot to mention that would inevitably be the goal of the project.

My other xmod is an untouched and completely unmodded Gen1 Civic that was destined to become a hot motor racer with stacked FETs, etc. Once Ive received a few more items Ive ordered, the RSX should be pretty close to completion.
I guess whatever happens to the "no-FET" car will dictate what Im going to do with the second Gen1. Im giving serious consideration to making my second car an Evo of some sort.

I think its time to dump a few bucks on a nice temp gun. The local hobby shop has a compact gun fer $54. Im in need of a gun to take statistical data with anyway. Plus it would be endlessly usefull on the track.

Get at me - mech

Just keep the EP out of the car (or leave a way to feel the FETs while in a car, ex: cut the bottom of the xmod out over them, and leave the metal heat sync out) when you 1st put the motor in. And slowly pully the trigger and see how hot the FETs get. If they get noticably hot (more than normal, try and see what it is normal) then thats when you need to watch it,.

but 52T should be fine.

Heres one suggestion: Buys some spare FETs and get good as soldering small stuff for if/when you do burn them in experimentation :lol: Just in case

I cant remember where, but I read recently that the arm is a 52 turn model, which should place me just on the cusp of safe/unsafe current draw.

Heres a snippet from the PN Racing site regarding the Speedy05 in the non BB can:

Product Detail
No Fets upgrade or external turbo required
Two big hole for cooling down the temperature
High temperature wire
Armature balanced
Big comm head, more bunch
Pre drill two hole for modified motor mount
104 cap installed
RPM 28000-29000 (4.8V Loading 2g)

Ive got the tut on configuring a multi-meter for motor amp-draw measure, but still dont have a 10A capable ammeter, or multi-meter. Ummm..... maybe that should be my next purchase? Ive been holding out till one of the local shops has one on sale, and I dont trust non name brand meters. A local big box hardware store had a nice digital multi-meter on sale months ago. $10, down from 35. Might just get a POS generic unit and calibrate it using my present multi-meter.

Thanks Tex. I guess Ill have to build the motor, get the meter and test it in the car.

Any other suggestions, guys? Id love any relevant info or experiences, as always.

- mech

47T, iso-ferrite mags, lith-ion and the 10t pinion (?) was just barely too much for the stock FETs on my gen1. An evo could handle that no problem.

Its in the FAQ on the amp limits of the gen1, I believe.

Comm drops is what your lookin for, and they will, IMO lower the amp draw because its less strain on the motor to rotate. Less strain, less amp draw.

AM has a tut on how to make a adapter to hook a volt meter to measure the amp draw from the motor too, its in their tutorials section for the xmods. Ill find it if you need it