There is a better way to do it where the secondary power source works in addition to your Xmod batteries, rather than completely switching to the secondary source. For example, you could run your car off of three lithiums instead of just two, without frying your board. BUT, because of people like the website listed above, I cannot tell you how to do it, for fear that I will see it out on the market in a month or two like I did with this tutorial. Stinks that people can't be honest huh? If I had the time, I would make the better version and sell it myself.

Whoa, dude, you could, like, do this combine the $10 NOS Mod with the Nitro Button Controller Mod, and when you press the nitro button, your car goes all like VRRRRMMMMMMM!!! :lol: By Nitro Button Controller Mod, I mean the one where you run your car on the LO throttle setting, and when you press the button, it bypasses the throttle setting switch and puts the throttle setting on HI.

roadkill595, I would apreciate it if you could maybe find some schematics for your idea, as it seems very useful.

all the nos kids i'v seen, including the one on the site uses a relay. it switches the circute off the car's power supply and onto its own, say a nine vault. with an exponential transistor you could theoreticaly control motor voltage by adding voltage from the secondary powersorce in controlable increments. in other words use a transistor and with the car throwing one volt at the engine, the transister matches with 1 from the secondary. the car throws 2, the trans matches with 4, and so on. you could resist the votalge thrown at the motor from the car to a max of 4, feeding another 16 from your secondary. the advantage of this over relay based nos is that the power boost would be smooth, no swithing back and forth, just smooth extra power.

And you can pay a lot less by doing this yourself too. He took it off this original tut. :roll:

u can buy the whole kit at xmodsinternational.com istead of poking aaaround hobby stores to see if there is any parts

so i know this board is old but has anyone ever tried using a transistor circuit instead of a relay? my grasp of electronics is kinda limited but it seams to me that one could use a transister to amplify the power going to the motor instead of switching it over completly.

well, i should say it SHOULD come with a book. my girlfriends 83 regular came with a inch and a half thick book and in it there were instructions on how to do EVERYTHING, including a nice section on programming. my 83silver came with a pamphlet, seriously, so you were on your own for that one. i would just assume the 84 did, otherwise nobody would know how to do any of those new features it has.

Okay, glad we got that cleared up. :)

They do, they run their own proprietary form of BASIC (I call it TIBASIC) which is pretty easy to learn.

There's a BOOK that comes with the 84? T_T I had to learn everything from poking through source and experimentation. lol, that would've made my job a lot easier. (I have an 83+ btw, I got it almost 4 years ago.)

ive got the book..... some where, thanks.

well arent we fancy?

anywho, if you have a little BASIC knowledge, even common sense to look at things analytically, and not assume, its easy like sunday morning.
http://www.ticalc.org/basics/calculators/ti-84plus.html
scroll down to the bottom, itll say basic programming and assembly programming, look at any of the basic ones and just mess around.

try looking in your book that came with it as well, theres a neat little writeup if you have the thick manual, its really easy to follow along with.

(83x and 84x use the same language i believe, so youll be alright.

ive gotta ti84 silver edition -polishes nails on shirt- if yall know of an article on howto program them, that would be awesome.

ohh ok. i got a little confused on that part then, i heard something different somehow. thanks, that does clear it up.

OT: ti83s are great, after my math class one day (back in high school) i made a program that will figure out pi to as many digits as i wanted, using an infinite taylor series and a loop, i just couldnt figure out how to have more than 10 digits :? . one day, my math teacher tried to teach everyone how to make a program to do the quadratic equation one day, it took the whole 50 minutes to teach them how to put in 6 lines of code. it was sad, kids these days . . . oh well, ill keep learning and itll be my job security :wink:

woot, someone else who knows TI-83 BASIC. :P The only reason I learned that was to keep busy during Trig class in high school.... :D

Okay, first things first. Potentiometers are rated in Ohms, not voltage. Wikipedia has a fantastic explanation here, scroll down to 'Types of potentiometers' and 'Low-Power type'. The higher the resistance (in ohms), the more the voltage drops. Did this clear it up?

i was just a little confused on your analogy earlier, but i forgot you said its for the relay not the motor, so yeah, we agree. it was a long day and i wasnt fully here . . . anyway, (im taking my C class next semester btw, i started with qbasic back in the day, then took visual basic, html, ti83 lol, a little C on my own, but never took off, some flash and java as well, but ive been too busy lately to pick it all up again)

i still have a question about the pot though, so 4.8V would still be enough to connect the relay terminals, its well within its threshold voltage? i know that if the voltage is too low it wont fire it, and it would be impractical for every pot to have a full range like starting at 1 and going up to whatever lets say 12V? so youre saying my 4.8V would work with the pot at the lowest setting, i know the relay would work then, but the pot would let the boost kick in right?

also dooday08, youre really something you know, im on this site once every few days when im not at school, working my two jobs or being with my girlfriend, my friends. youre the one that obviously does none seeing as youre making fun of us on a forum YOURE a part of as well, so you need to grow up and if you dont like it, just leave it alone. some people have whats called hobbies, look it up sometime

scottish heritage and proud :o

btw, if you havent noticed, i am out side in that pic, even mountain biking.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

so do you feel tougher now, talking tough on the internet, oh wow!

no please, take this somewhere else, this thread is to informative to get locked.

Do you want me to go slow and smooth.. or do you have a different technique for me to do?

here i get shit from a scronny ass pale white kid. oooooooo im scared pussy. how about you go outside, maby get a tan or a girlfriend. o i have an idea GET A LIFE.

but you do sit and talk tough all day. ooooooooo we are scared!

btw, threatening me on aim :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

come on now, show some effort.

HEY MURDOCH HOW BOUT U SUCK MY D!CK AND GET A LIFE. IM SORRY I DONT SIT AT HOME AND PLAY REMOTE CONTROL CARS ALL DAY.

Okay pal... I don't know you and I already don't like you. For starters.. ever heard of first impressions? yep that's right. your first impression to me is a snotty, know-it-all kid who opens his mouth and shuts his ears.

You come in here asking how to wire up a SIMPLE board to an evo, become confused by something a six year old can understand, and then you turn around and try and pick a fight with people here? Come on, give your head a shake.

You also forgot that when you try and pick a fight with someone, other and more experienced people will come in, see the argument you pose and nail you to the wall when they see all the holes in it.

So; learn some basic electronics, learn some common decencey.. and maybe you'll become a contributing member.

Is this clear enough for you?

:lol:

Where did you read that? www.xmodsrc.com?

you cant even wire that v2 in, so please, STFU, oh wait, i need the...

I hope we don't have a misunderstanding, that's voltage applied to the relay only. The motor voltage is unaffected.

A pot is short for potentiometer, which is just a variable resistor. Resistors provide resistance on voltage and current regardless of what is applied to it. You're thinking more like a signal transistor/relay, where there's a threshold voltage which much be reached. If you use a pot, you can vary the resistance (and therefore, as a direct result, the voltage acting upon the relay).

I'm more proficient in C... lol

[code:43dfdfdd3e]#define TRUE 1
#define FALSE 0
#define THRES 6 // Threshold voltage for relay

int main()
{

int voltage, // Voltage applied to relay
relay_fire = FALSE, // TRUE if on, FALSE if off
car_on = TRUE; // assume the car is on

while( car_on = TRUE )
{

if( voltage >= THRES )
relay_fire = TRUE;

else
relay_fire = FALSE;

}

}[/code:1:43dfdfdd3e]

Something like that.

In the simple model, yes. There is hysteresis (ie, chattering on and off when the actual voltage is on the threshold) and, possibly, severe physical impact causing the relay to conduct. Ideally, I'd make this circuit using only solid-state parts (ie. power transistor, predetermined resistor value instead of relay and pot) to both increase reliability and lower physical size/weight. Plus, if I etched a pcb for it, I can mount it on the roof where the command logic lights would have gone.

If you use a high quality relay, 4.8v is well within the tolerance of a 5v relay. Some of my 12v relays I found lying around actually fired at 6v. o_o Also, consider how popular running 12v computer fans on 7v is to lower noise (like I said above, the Xbox relies on this technology). You will most likely be able to set the fire point on your relay even though you use a lower voltage than it's rated for. Just a note though, it may not work near the end of the play session. Also, if you use that extremely low voltage, your pot doesn't have to be as big (big meaning, as high a value). :)

Please stfu and stop wasting Kai's bandwidth.

hey White_Hamster your a moron. just because im new to a website and dont sit on my computer all day like you, you loser, doesnt mean i dont know what im talking about. all you need is the 2s pack, v2.2, motor wire upgrade, carbon driveshaft, awd, closed bearings, atomic t2 motor, and a few aluminum parts. that is all you need for an xmod. i can run mine at 41.6 miles per hour. is that enough boost for YOU!

i understand the circuit, but i got the impression from blown's write up that turning the pot all the way down sets the voltage the relay fires at to be 6V, thats why i thought that it wouldnt work well with 4 rechargables. since thats 4.8V. so at full throttle, i would be below the cut off point, right?

now about your explanation, the way you phrase it, take your graph,
f(x)=(x/10)-5
i understand where youre coming from, however that would mean until you get to 50% throttle, you would have no voltage at all.

how i understood a pot to work was when the voltage hits a certain point, that it then lets the electricity go through, or redirect it, depending on the pot, which in this curcuit would connect the relay terminals and cause the relay to do its thing as a big if then statement.

if you understand programming, the circuit is an IF/THEN statement, basically: (and i mean really basically, this is qbasic for kindergardners)

IF the Voltage gets to 6V, THEN it connects the terminals of the relays, which (in this circuit) transfer the power source from stock to whatever else youre using. ELSE (Voltage is less than 6V), the relay doesnt 'fire' and the way this curcuit is wired up, the car's stock voltage drives the car in that case.

the pot would then be the trigger if the relay was the gun, essentially, and the voltage would be your finger pulling on it, you need to pull back to the same spot before it fires, you have a little leway close to the trigger before your finger pulls it to the spot where it fires. but when the finger (voltage) gets close enough to the threshold, the trigger (pot) gets far enough back to discharge the gun (relay).

thats the way i interpreted this circuit, maybe its a little violent for some, but the programming view of it helps me a lot when im decrypting various curcuits.

now, this specific pot then, would i be able to set the precise voltage for the firing of the relay as low as 4.8V or is that too low for this specific one?

(im tired)

A potentiometer is just a resistor. Resistors do not have 'trigger' voltages, they just provide, as their name suggests, resistance on the current and voltage. What the resistor does for this circuit is 'fine tune' the precise voltage upon which the relay ACTUALLY fires, not it's 'rating'. In theory, yes, it will make the relay rated to 6v, etc. but the point in which it trips is just being adjusted.

An analogy I'll use is a graph. If you've taken Algebra II or maybe even Geometry, you'll know that if you add a constant to a graph (say X / 10 ... it goes through the origin, but if you change it to ( X / 10 ) + 1 it will have a Y-intercept of 1. The resistor is that constant (yet in actuality, the resistor is the equation and the relay is the constant), which adjusts the graph as we need it to. In this example, the X-Axis represents the % throttle, and the Y-Axis represents the voltage the motor is getting (for simplicity, we'll disregard the PWM). Say that we would like our relay to trip at 5v, which is more or less at full throttle (simplified for the example's sake). if X / 10 was without the resistor, we see that at 100% throttle, we have 10v. (This is just an example. This is NOT a voltage you will see in a normal Xmod.) This is not desirable, because with this curve, the relay will trip at half throttle (50%). So, we add a resistor. The resistor will, in the graphical explanation, be a negative constant (lowers the voltage, so this makes sense hopefully). Ideally, we'd like to adjust the potentiometer so that we have the curve we'd like (one in which (100, 5) is a part of the set). In this ideal case, the resistor will provide a negative constant of -5. The curve ( X / 10 ) - 5 passes right through (100, 5) so therefore is a valid equation. The whole object of having a pot in there is so that you can tune the relay. It's far too expensive and impractical to make 4v relays, 4.8v relays, etc. especially in the tolerance needed for this project.

I do have some warnings though, make sure you tune your relay with tolerance... if you make the cutoff voltage EXACTLY your 100% throttle, it may not fire all the time. I noticed that on my Xmod transmitter, sometimes mashing the controls (steering, throttle) made a difference. ie. I have tight turns installed; when I lightly turned the steering to its max, the car did exactly that. When I mashed the steering at the max, I could hear the servo buzzing. Why is this relevant? When racing (which is the whole point of this, to use it in a race), you may not always use the same pressure you used when building/tuning this circuit.

Hope I answered your question, ask if I confused you about anything. :)

i was wondering about that earlier, i know the relay would work with a tolerance but what about the pot, doesnt that kick in and switch the power source at a full 6V?

It doesn't really matter, 5v is just the absolute-must-be-able-to-run-at-this-spec sort of thing, everything and anything can be underdriven/overdriven to some extent (benefit of the fact that tolerance has, more or less, some flexibility). This is the reason why your GBA still runs when its low battery light comes on, why you can drive computer fans with 7v, and why watches dim when they're almost gone. Most of the time, the consequences are minimal (sometimes preferable, especially with the computer fan and if you're worried about noise... in fact, the stock Xbox fan is run off of 7v when it's rated for 12). Your relay will reliably fire at 4.8v, it's nothing to worry about.

I sure hope that this flood of 8 year olds will stop soon too. Especially 8 year olds who think they know everything, or at least more than everyone on the forum.

roflrofl

Back on topic, I don't know why no one mentioned this earlier... the best thing to replace the secondary voltage source with is, in fact, lithium ions (no matter what your setup). A twin pack of AA's strapped together naked (or AAA's in a battery holder) will fit nicely on top of the chassis.

all youre doing is adding a wire in between the motor positive and the board positive, and the negative from the motor and the negative from the board, thats not even close to 100 :roll: . you know, 3 posts here and i havent seen one that contributes anything to our little forum. this is a very good idea in theory (my problem is im running at 4.8V and i need that extra .2 to make this work any :? ).

since you know what youre talking about better than members who contributed something to this community, what is a better way to get noticeable BOOST from your xmod and use less than 4 wires? im dying to know.

so god help you if you say anything about a capacitor . . .

too many wires and a stupid idea. theres many other things you can do to get a boost instead of using 100 wires.

More thread necromancy from me...

I hope you're still not wondering, but in case you are there is a choice you have to make before you can get a motor.

What are you looking for? High boost, or a fast motor to begin with?

If you want maximum boost, then get a Stage 1. The lower the current draw, the more effect the 9v will have. 9v cannot supply very much current (especially if it's alkaline).

If you want a fast motor to begin with, then choose your favorite motor. The more current it takes though, the less effect the boost will have. In fact, if you use a high-current motor, the boost will actually cause your car to slow down due to the current ceiling (and/or your 9v battery will suffer, if you use lithium ion batteries).

THANK YOU BLOWN!!! I've been waiting for your 2 bits before I plugged anything in.
As far as rewiring the chassis, I don't have any connections on my EVO anyway. SO basically, I'm going to have to solder some wires w/connectors on them in order to plug the TURBO into the motor and pcbs.

One last thing...does anybody have suggestions as to which motor to use?

By labeling the plugs as "male" or "female", you do have to use the plugs that have two prongs on one and no prongs on the other. If you use the plugs like Greed4speed used on his, you will have trouble plugging the system into the car (unless you re-wire the actual car to accept those plugs). In essence, the male end plugs into the chassis, while the female end plugs into the motor. If you have a non-working chassis, you can clip the connectors off of it, but the Deans connectors were just an alternative to doing that.

For Greed4speed's question, from the looks of your picture and how your plugs are wired, the end labled (+) should connect to the car, and the end labled (-) should connect to the motor.

Interesting Question: How did you know which set of wires to solder in order to get as far as you have? I'm referring to the steps beginning in 8? That would tell you which one is which, right? You had to decide which of your connectors you were going to label as the 'male', and which to label as the 'female' before you soldered, Correct?

Thank You for your reply; however, is it placed in addition to the original wiring, or does it replace the original wiring?

Also...any response to the other question concerning my stiuation w/ the Dean's Plugs? [quote:4b75ff2ba1="greed4speed"]Which one (the wiring in step 8 or the wiring in step 10) goes to the motor...which to the car?