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basics of custom body work by aznballa2k4
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Sat, 09/24/2005 - 03:25
i'll try to explain the process as simple as i can. we'll go over putty first. it all depends on what u like. everything is just my suggestion. (if u don't need to know about the types of putty is used then skip to the next section)
bondo bodyfiller is made for cars. it is originally made to fill in the dents on cars. it has light weight. it is not very strong when it comes to fine detail. it dries quickly in hot/warm temperature. in hot weather, the dry time is probably 1-2 minutes. theres not a lot of time to work with. it comes with 2 things; the filler and hardener. it is toxic. the fumes can cause dizziness, headache, etc. u'll need to use it in a well ventilated area. pretty much just read and follow the warning label. prices can vary on the size, store, etc. can be found at auto sections or auto stores.
tamiya epoxy putty quick/smooth type is made for models. i like using the quick type. when i used smooth type it felt rubbery when i tried to sand it. smooth type pretty turns out to be smooth on the surface when it is done curing. it is the opposite of bondo. doesn't have anything that will harm u. it is a 2 part putty. u rip off the same amount of putty from both sticks and knead them together. it is very strong when it comes to fine detail. you should sand the area that u r applying it to. it will have better surface adhesion. prices vary on store. can be found at hobby stores. only problem is that not all hobby stores carry it so call ahead.
bondo spot putty is just like bondo bodyfiller. this is made to fill in the holes left by the bubbles in bondo bodyfiller. if used to make custom work, it simply isn't good for that. it is very horrible to sand and very brittle.
testor contour putty is crap. basicly don't use it.
jb weld is made more for plumbing i think. similar to bondo but its in tubes. it is very hard to sand and very difficult to make detail. i think it has metal particles in it and it'll add a lot of weight since it might have some metal in it.
well i pretty much recommend using tamiya epoxy putty quick type. i also advise that you shouldn't work with putty that are only 1 part such as squadron or things out of a tube. over time those will shrink and cause paint problems and the appeal of the car.
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tools that you will need:
sandpaper- have a variety of grits for sanding. just don't use the really rough ones such as the ones with rock grains. i say use 250 and up.
dremel- any type of dremel is fine. get it with an engraver. that will come in handy for bumpers.
xacto knife- used for cutting and other useful applications.
assorted files- very helpful when getting certain shapes and lines.
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MORE IS COMMING. JUST NOT SURE HOW MANY PICS IT'LL ALLOW ME TO POST AT A TIME. ALSO THIS IS A LOT OF WORK.
i found this very useful so i decided to do a 1 and a half year thread ressurection for other ppl who might find this thread reallllly useful :D
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Xmodworld is now back alive! <3
sorry for resurecting an old topic but i was wondering what you used as body fill and where did you get the mesh for the grill?
oh alright. awsome thanks alot man
its one of those sifter*idk how to spell* thingys... go to a cooking shop*hint hint, i see them alot at the asian grocery stores* they should have them at walmart to, in the cooking section... but it just that, then you straighten it out! :wink:
NiKkO<<
i'm just curious where the best place to get the steel mesh from is? like can u get it really cheap somewhere, or is my best bet going to a hardware store
sorry for digging up an old thread, but, how do i fit the mesh in it? i have tried many things but i am not sure how to do it right.
dang.......hecka nice.....you have very nice taste in bodykits also. i'm still working on painting...so i'm not quite at the body cutting just yet.
I waswondering can you make custom front and back bumpers and sideskirts. Also very good tut
vey nice tut! i too, think its needs to be a sticky.
tht is a really good tut........ do u think you could make one 4 me because i wanna find out how to make a replacable targa top for myy xmods........i have no expirience in bondo or anything
how long did this take you i wana cut holes in my front bumper and use real mesh like u
very nice tutorial. I agree with hotheels73093 this should be a sticky
Nice tutorial! This deserves to be a sticky.....
speechless, pefect, wow, aww.
1. look for the imperfections. in this case, the left side isn't as straight as the right side. having awkward sizes or lines is very noticeable.
2. fix any problems that are made by accidental overcut by the dremel.
by now it should be close to perfect with only minor problems. make sure to match everything and check if it is to scale. don't leave unfinished work. add in missing detail and fix parts that need fixing.
once everything is done, primer it and paint. and here is how it should look:
the end....
first off, u'll need a reference picture. this is mine
http://chargespeed.com/photo/ext-force/dc5/dc5_f.jpg
this is to help u pay attention to lines, detail and shape.
obviously we are going from the black stock bumper to the new red bumper. as u can see on the stock one, there are no holes.
for me, the easiest way is to use the dremel with an engraver. when u do this, compare with the reference pic and mark where u want to start and end. when i measure it, i put it onto the body and measure it at every angle. use the headlights to help determine how far to go and where it ends.
as u can see, after making the holes, i've left those 2 parts there. that will help support the bumper and give an idea of where to put the putty at.
see how i started off in the first picture? that is how it will look if it is not planned out. and in the second pic it is a little more planned out. u can already start to see the detailed line. don't pay too much attention on how ugly it looks in the begining. all it needs is just a lot of work.
1. the white piece is styrene. it helps stop the putty from going too far into the bumper. also it gives more of a straight line which is needed for this bumper type.
2. this is where a curved file would come in handy. it will be a lot easier than using sand paper. it will also give a more perfect line. also pay attention to how it is close to being exact to one another. it lines up precisely the same distance and ends at the same point where the headlight is about to end.(it is very difficult to explain. sorry if it is confusing.)
3. pay attention to the detail. every line counts. the more precise it is, the better. its difficult but its worth the work.
MORE WILL COME LATER!!!!!